It’s 4:30am when my bus arrives in Fez. A taxi brings me to the hotel I stayed in two weeks ago, but a scribbled note taped to the locked door says they’re full. I’m not surprised— it’s Christmas Eve and I’ve already noticed an influx of tourists. I shoo a couple cats off the stoop and nestle into a corner that smells like piss. I’m … Continue reading A Month in Morocco: Topped Off With a Kiss
In Fez I walked past many late-night hair salons. Every shop I passed was booming with business even when everything else was closed. Men sat in the chairs getting the sort of treatment I remember my grandfathers talking about—straight razors, eyebrow edging, and slaps of aftershave all while discussing the day’s headlines and talking shit. I felt an unearned nostalgia for such an experience and … Continue reading A Month in Morocco: Shave and Shine
I woke up tired and sore. I thought of doing some stretches and was reminded of a dream I had during the night: I had just finished a yoga class when a woman with bright yellow eyes asked me if I knew any poses good for low-back pain. After I made a few suggestions, she hugged me, and as our bodies pressed together, my back … Continue reading A Month in Morocco: Remembering How to Travel
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